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Masterarbeit

The Modernization of the US Cosmetic Regulation Act of 2022: An Overview of the New Challenges for Small and Medium Enterprises in the USA ***

Kathleen Grundke (2025)

Summary

Language: English

Cosmetic products have a long history and were used by the upper class before becoming accessible to the public through industrialization. Due to harmful ingredients, strict regulations were introduced in the USA and the EU. In the USA, regulation began with the Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act of 1938 and was significantly expanded with the Modernization of the Cosmetic Regulation Act of 2022 (MoCRA). The implementation of MoCRA strengthens U.S. Food & Drug Administration (FDA) oversight of cosmetic products marked in the USA and requires a documented safety substantiation.

Moreover, MoCRA improves transparency in labeling and packaging, particularly for fragrance declarations, and introduces the "Cosmetics Direct Portal" for better product safety and compliance. Moreover, the companies are requested to adverse event reporting or safety concerns related to cosmetic products after they are placed on the market to FDA.

In the EU, Regulation No. 1223/2009 governs the market with strict safety assessments, the Cosmetic Product Notification System, and a complete ban on animal testing. Compared to the USA, EU regulations are stricter, particularly regarding animal testing and the use of certain ingredients. However, MoCRA has brought the USA closer to European regulation, especially in terms of safety assessments, cosmetic surveillance, and good manufacturing practices (GMP), while remaining more flexible for small businesses.

Both the USA and the EU focus on preventing misleading advertising claims to protect consumers, ensuring product information is accurate. However, they differ in their requirements of cosmetic formulations and ingredient safety. In the USA, ingredients like UV filters are treated as drugs, while the EU has no similar regulation. The EU also enforces a full ban on animal testing, unlike the USA, where animal testing is permitted.

MoCRA has aligned the USA's regulatory framework closer to European standards, particularly in safety assessments, adverse event reporting and compliance with GMP guidelines. However, the USA remains more flexible, especially for small businesses, with some regulations still under development, such as fragrance labeling and GMP guidelines.

For small- and medium enterprises (SME) companies, the implementation of these new requirements under MoCRA could pose significant challenges. These businesses may face increased costs and administrative burdens to meet the new safety and compliance standards. However, despite these challenges, there are also potential opportunities for growth. Companies that are able to meet the new regulatory requirements will be better positioned to build consumer trust, improve product quality, and ultimately differentiate themselves in an increasingly competitive market.

One proposed development of a joint registration strategy for a US-based SME aiming to sell cosmetic products in the EU and US markets involves several crucial steps. The process starts with market analysis and the creation of a “green” product line focused on sustainability and organic ingredients. The strategy includes establishing GMP, TPP, product formulation, packaging design, safety substantiation through CPSR and PIF, cosmeticovigilance system, and a marketing strategy. Implementing this strategy means that small companies will be able to successfully register and sell their cosmetic products in the European and US markets and provide access to new markets and opportunities.

In summary, MoCRA represents a significant step towards improving the quality and safety of cosmetic products for consumers in the USA. By introducing stricter regulations for manufacturing practices, safety evidence, cosmetic monitoring and labeling, MoCRA is intended to improve consumer protection and ensure that cosmetics are safer and more reliable. While it may be difficult for small businesses to comply with the new regulations at first, the long-term benefits of increased consumer confidence and sector growth outweigh the costs and effort.

Pages: 77

Annexes:6, Pages: 11

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